What is the difference between Platinum, White Gold and Palladium?

What is the difference between Platinum, White Gold and Palladium?

To the uninitiated all white metal jewellery may look identical, however appearances can be deceptive.  -   There are good reasons why many people are prepared to pay a higher price for a platinum engagement ring. Read on to see why palladium wedding rings are so popular.

Things you should know when buying white metal jewellery.

PLATINUM is a naturally white metal that is 30 times rarer than gold.  Platinum is also denser than gold, so  an item of jewellery made in platinum would be around 30% heavier than an identical piece made in 18ct gold.  Platinum jewellery is generally 95% pure, whereas 18ct gold is 75% pure. Consequently platinum jewellery costs more than white gold jewellery.  -  Is it worth paying the higher price?

Platinum is  a very tough material that is highly resistant to wear and tarnish, making it very well suitable for jewellery, and the best metal for holding gems securely.  Platinum never fades or tarnishes, and keeps its white colour forever. A piece of platinum jewellery has a satisfying luxurious weight.

WHITE GOLD was developed as a cheaper alternative to platinum. White Gold is an alloy of pure gold with one or more other metals, such as silver, palladium and copper. In the past Nickel was used, but this can cause skin reactions so is no longer permitted in the UK.

18ct white gold is 75% pure gold, which is a rich yellow, mixed with 25% other metals, so the resulting alloy is not a clean white colour.  The colour varies depending on the metals used, but it is generally a pale yellow, brown or grey.  For this reason white gold jewellery is almost always rhodium-plated.  When you look at a piece of white gold jewellery in a jeweller’s window, what you are seeing is not white gold itself, but a thin coating disguising the dirty off-white colour of the white gold.

Rhodium is a platinum-group metal that is very white. Unfortunately plating is so thin that it does not last long.  When the plating starts to wear the white gold below will start to show through, giving the appearance of a stain appearing on the surface.  With Items such as wedding rings or engagement rings that are worn continuously this may be noticed within a few months. Wear will start on the parts that are rubbed most. (Driving, carrying bags etc will wear through the rhodium on the back of a ring, whilst the top of the ring stays white for much longer.)

White gold is comparatively soft metal and it will gradually wear away.  This includes claws holding gems in place.  If you want your white gold jewellery polished-up, the process will remove plating. White gold jewellery can be re-plated, but this is a fairly expensive process.

Palladium is a platinum-group metal.  Like Platinum, it is naturally white, so requires no plating.  Palladium  has been used  in jewellery since World War II, but was not very popular until July 2009 when it was given a hallmark. Items made before then were either unmarked or simply stamped Pall. or Pd. Since July 2009 palladium has seen an amazing surge in popularity.

PALLADIUM is less dense than platinum, and weighs about the same as 9ct gold.  It is tough and hard-wearing, and in certain applications it is an excellent alternative to platinum.  It is very suitable for simple items like plain wedding rings, which can be visually indistinguishable from platinum. Palladium is especially popular for men’s wedding rings which for many couples are unaffordable in platinum.  With a palladium wedding ring you get the platinum look for less than the cost of white gold!

For a woman’s wedding ring,  if the engagement ring is in platinum, it is advisable to stick with platinum for the wedding ring.

In other applications, such as gem-set rings, palladium is not as suitable as platinum.  A platinum ring can hold stones securely with fine claws, whereas thicker claws would be needed in a palladium version.

Palladium is more difficult to use in some types of jewellery,  and this can mean a higher labour charge, which can can cancel-out the benefit of the lower material cost.  We are always happy to discuss the pros and cons of different metals.

Palladium chains do not look as white as those in platinum, and there are currently very few styles available.